August 10th, Last full day

Our last full day in Paris! Tim and the kids are going to try to make up for what they lost yesterday by going to L’Invilades which has been on their to-do list, particularly the Musee d’Armees which I had no desire to see. They are also going to go to L’Orangerie to see the Monet’s Water Liles and the other Impressionists. I was going to go to the Lardu outdoor market but all kinds of things managed to go wrong and suddenly it was time to meet them.

We met on the riverbank near Invilades and had lunch. Then the guys went off to do their stuff which turned out to include a comic book store, and Elisabeth and I headed for the Palais d’Opera and shopping.

We could have spent a day in the Opera. What an incredible building! Plus they had costumes from many of their famous ballets and pictures of their most famous dancers. I should say that for many years, the Opera has been a different newer building over by the Bastille while the Opera building has been occupied by the National Ballet Company. In the area that highlighted the school, they had 13 short ballets or parts of ballets. I think Elisabeth and I could have sat and watched all 13. As it was, we saw a modern piece called Apartment (but the French spelling) which was a modern piece incorporating Irish music and dance which I loved. Elisabeth had never seen a modern ballet before. We saw a strange piece called La Source, kind of spooky. We also saw part of Carman and Balanchine’s Jewels, the Emeralds part.

 

 

We were able to go outside and see the Place de l’Opera from the balconies and the formal salons.

 

We almost left without seeing the actual boxes overlooking the stage, but fortunately, some people came out and we caught them.

They lead you out by the formal front entrance and it must be so special to be coming in those doors and walking through the glamour to the wide staircase for the performance. And of course, you had to exit thru the gift shop and I feel sorry for any parent there with a young daughter.

Then we were off to Gallerie Lafayette! This was one of Elisabeth’s must dos for the trip. What an experience… I am not sure either of us would think it was totally good. First it was a mob scene. Worse than Macy’s Herald Square, which previously held my #1 department store for crowds. Then trying to figure out where to go??? That fact that all the announcements were in English, kind of gives you an idea about the clientele. Then we ended up in the 800 euro bag area and then all the big designer names and price tags. We finally found the floor that was Elisabeth’s type of clothes and price tag. She ended up having a great time in the Zara boutique and bought a really pretty black dress. It was floor length and she thinks she will wear it for her Senior Prom but I think it will find an occasion before that.

But we really wanted to do more and Gallerie Lafayette really wasn’t the place. I asked one of the young sales girls (no need to check for English, they all spoke excellent English), where she would shop if not in this store. She sent us out to Rue de Houssman and the streets that went off it around the Opera. We had a good time window shopping but didn’t buy anything else, although Elisabeth came close with a pair of shoes.

Then it was off to meet the guys at Notre Dame. We were on time but they had gotten there so early they had gone through the line twice. Back we went to the end, all the way across the river but it did move very fast. And again, we hit it at the same time as services, this time Vespers. So silence rained, more than usual. But there were 4 remarkable tapestries dedicated to Mary’s life that dated to the building of the Church, given to Notre Dame by the King.  They had lost favor with the church hierarchy and been loaned out than finally given to another cathedral with 10 others. They were back to celebrate the Cathedral’s 850^th anniversary. I would have liked to spend more time but Tim and the kids were uncomfortable being in the church during services.

The next stop was the Latin Quarter again for dinner. Three of us had steak tartare which both kids liked but that we don’t get in the states anymore. I did have to remove the raw egg from Elisabeth’s and as usual, John ate all the left overs, particularly the French fries. Then more shopping!

The first time we had walked down Boulevard St. Germaine de la Pres, we had encountered tent markets on the side of the sidewalk. I had fallen in love with glass tree that you hang earrings on  that I wanted to go back and get as my souvenir of Paris and my birthday present from Mike. John wanted to get a gift and Elisabeth a scarf. The only one not buying a souvenir for himself was Tim although he was helping everyone else do so. We all got what we were looking for, plus a Russian hat John wanted. Tim helped me negotiate an excellent price for my tree and Elisabeth’s scarf. John did his own very successful negotiating.

Then home for packing and sleep.

August 9th - Rooftop Views and the Tour that Wasn't

I set out on my own Friday morning because Elisabeth was sick and Tim and John were going to stay with her. We had a bus tour scheduled for 1:15 and I wanted to make a good a use of my days in Paris as possible.

I set out to find the market that was supposed to be at Abbesses which is one subway stop north of us in Montmartre but didn't find it. But I did enjoy the walk around the section, despite all the stairs and uphills, as it was just coming alive. I also saw some stores I hope I can find again tomorrow with Elisabeth on her shopping day.

 Above is a plaza just opening up and below is the Passage de Abbesses which I actually climbed up and took the picture at the top.

 

So now I needed to hop the metro and get to the Invalides Dome and the Musee d'Orsay. We had gotten 2 day Museum passes and since the Dome was covered, I wanted to go back and see it, particularly the other side of the glass with the cross. It was quite beautiful inside but while it may have started out as a church, it is actually a mausoleum today. In addition to Napoleon, there are many other important military figures buried there as well as a tribute monument to those who died in the "Great War".

As I approached the Musee d’Orsay, there was a mime on the corner. He was quite entertaining and I wanted to get a picture of him but there were 2 people locking bikes up and the guys butt was right in the middle of the picture! I have never seen 2 people take so long to chain bikes! I waited. The mime got my issue and he was so funny in his silent comments about it. I dug a 2 euro piece out of my pocket for his box and got a very gallant kiss on the hand for it. I was finally able to line up a picture with no green tail in it, to get my shot and headed to the museum. The couple was STILL chaining the bikes!

Musee d’Orsay was wonderful and I wish I could have spent all day there. This is my second time but it is never enough. I headed straight for the 5^th etage (6^th floor as we know it) to the Impressionists but when you reach the top, there is a platform where you can have a panorama view of the museum. It has a ground floor with a walkway of sculptures and rooms off the main corridor. But then it is open to the glass roof. The other floors are built around it.

They have the Impressionists so that you walk through the stages, starting with around 1865 and each room gets later, finishing with the time around 1900. I quickly realized that my French was not going to hold up and went back to get an audio set which really made a difference. The impressionists also included sculptures by Rodin and Degas.

This finished in the café and you could go out on the terrace to see the view of Paris facing across the river. There are also 2 giant clocks on the 5^th etage of the museum. I couldn’t get a picture of one without a million people in the way but the other is in the café. My camera lost all the surroundings but if you look through the dial, you will see Sacre Ceour.

There was a special exhibit on the rest of the floor which was called A Passion for France: The Marlene and Spencer Hays Collection. This is actually a collection of a couple from Nashville, TN which is hung in their home but they loaned much of it to the d’Orsay for this exhibit. It is filled with works from the late 18^th and early 19^th centuries including the Nabis artists, a group I was unfamiliar with. It was an wonderful exhibit for me.

Unfortunately, it was time to leave and meet up with the tour. They were to pick Tim and the kids up at the apartment and I was to meet them at the Eiffel Tour. I was really worried about being late so while I walked, I did it quickly and beat them there. So I sat and read, and read, and read. Then it felt like it started to rain, so I put up my umbrella but soon realized it was only raining on me! Got up, moved, only to have the police come and move us out. I settled down 4 times only to be moved further each time. I finally headed across the street to the far corner. Saw the bomb squad arrive.

They finally picked me up and we then did a boat ride on the Scene, nice ride, lame tour. To make matters worse, we had a group of Arabs surrounding us who showed no interest in what we were seeing but had lots of kids they didn’t control. I told Tim the next trip would have to be a booze cruise so we didn’t have kids on it.

Off the boat and apparently the Eiffel Tower was opened again, so off we went to there. The tickets were only took you to the 2^nd floor, not to the top and the guide said that it would take us an hour to get up and see things from that point, which would put us at 5:50 of a tour that was supposed to end at 6:15, did we want him to come back to give us a lift somewhere? This is for a tour that was supposed to show us Montmartre, Notre Dame, Sainte-Chapelle, the Eiffel Tower and more! We said no to the pickup. I was fine with the 2^nd floor (that’s the wide area you see half way up). The others went to the top and celbrated with champagne.

So we finished up at the Eiffel Tower and headed to dinner.

We found a café on the right bank a bit east of the Eiffel Tower and ate outside. It seems dogs are welcome in outside cafes because we had 2 visitors, one from the lady on our right and we thought from the couple on our left who were from Cincinnati. But it turns out that the little white dog was from the people all the way down at the end of the row, he just wanted to visit everyone, probably everyone with food.

On our way to the Arc de Triomphe, Elisabeth got her chocolate crepe. We also walked past the Palais de Chaillot with its incredible spraying fountains. I am sure they are a huge hit on really hot days.

I took some pictures of the Arc and of the tomb of the unknown soldier from WWI before facing way too many stairs. But the view, and particularly the sunset were definitely worth it.  

 

I would have loved to share pictures of the Eiffel Tower and Sacre-Ceour lit up on the night sky but my pictures all came out black. Mike wasn't along to change my settings since I am sure that is what it was...some day I will learn to operate this camera!

August 8th, the day of Museums

Today was the day to start with the Louvre so Tim and the kids could see the Mona Lisa. I headed to the top floor to see the Flemish landscapes. Instead I was way too many Reuben’s. They had half the floor closed, so I have to assume that the Rembrants and van Rysdals were all there because there wasn't a single one in the Flemish area that was open. I did however see 2 special collections, the Helene and Victor Lovey in particular, that were very nice. There were also 2 exhibits of drawings which I thought were really cool. Particularly because the ones that were the basis of pictures or murals because they showed a photo of the finished work.

 

Tim, Elisabeth and John by the base of the pyramid.

 

Later as I walked along the river, I caught this look into the Louvre at the Lions Gate which I thought was neat.

 

In the summer, Paris sets up beach on the Seine. Plange Paris which was recommended to us by all the Parisians we had talked to before we went.

 

A street corner clock on the side of a building in the Ile de la Cite.

 

Our first stop on the Ile de la Cite was Sainte-Chapelle. The stained glass is so incredible, particularly the Rose Window.

 Everyone is so busy looking up, they miss the fabulous tiling on the floor.

 

Next stop, the Conciege where people were held on the way to the guioltine. It actually has far more history than that but it's part in the Revolution is what people all want to see and hear about.

 

Next it was off to the Latin Quarter. As we were approaching the monument and plaza, a street performer was finishing up his dance. He must have been really good because we couldn't get close enough to see him.

 

The guardens at the Luxemburg Palace were exquisite. And the park is filled with things for adults and kids to do. Pony rides, g.o carts, tennis and more. Apparently, it was built by Marie Medice after her husband's death when she was regent for the young king her son, but through politics and intrigue, barely got to live there. A powerful woman who died penniless but left Paris with its most beautiful park.

 

John and Elisabeth and Tim at Luxenburg Gardens.

Luxemburg Palace is now government offices but there is a museum that were going to go to but couldn't find. We did find the Orangeries which had current artists showing their work which I really liked. Some gave me ideas for things to try on fabric with dye and paint. There were also great photos and furniture. The furniture was made with semi-precious stones tops in patterns that were really impressive.



 

After the Luxemburg Gardens we stopped in the Place de le Sorbonne for dinner. Then home, tired as usual.



August 7th, Paris, Rain & ....Bikes???

We woke up to the pouring rain! And Tim had scheduled us to do a 4 hour bike ride tour around Paris. It was rain or shine, non-refundable. I am not a happy camper. I didn't know I was doing this till Paris, don't have the clothes to do it comfortably and IT'S RAINING!

So we head out to the Gare d'Austerlitz to the meeting place via the metro. There are things I like a lot better about the NYC subways but there are things about the Paris on that I wish we would implement.

I am hoping we won't find the place but unfortunately, we do. I finally realize that I really can't do this today. Shades of Ireland. It is not that I haven't biked since my small mishap on Inishmore, I have but it was the Smell the Roses portion (about 8 miles) of one of Mike's rides on a York rail trail. The idea of 4 hours in the drizzle on wet unknown streets with cars and wet leaves...no.

So I went off to walk to the museums under my trusty unbrella. Juggling a camera, unbrella, Michlin guide, map (soon a very soggy map) was an interesting experience. But it was worth it. I walked along the left bank of the Seine all the way to the Museed'Orsey.

Childrens park along the Sceine with sculptures 

The Seine

Notre Dame is so pretty from the back!

 

And the side

 

My plans were to go to Musee D'Orsey but I got there and the line was so long, the guys would have been finished with the ride before I got in. So I kept walking. I have wanted to go to the Musee de l' Orangerie, so that was my next stop. On the way, as I crossed the river outside the Musee D'Orsey and there were really cool drawings on the pavement.

 

In addition, the walls of the river bank held murels by an artist called Reza. Below are the ones on the left bank.

 

These are some of the ones on the right bank.

 

I love taking pictures of the bridges across the Seine.

 

To get to the Musee de l' Orangerie, you go through the Jardin de Tuilleries....don't do it in the rain! All the walking paths turn to mud and in today's case, puddles to big to get around. I got to the Musee de l' Orangerie and it had a line too. I stood in it for about 15 minutes when I realized I was not going to get into in very fast. But I took some pictures of the Place de Concorde.

 

So having been unsuccessful twice in a row, I headed for Hotel des Invalides. The Pont Alexandre is gorgeous. I can only imagine what they spend in gold leaf to keep it up. I got a couple of good pictures (in my opinion) of it.

While crossing the bridge, I heard that sound we have all heard in the movies of the police car in Paris...it really sounds like that! But in this case it was an ambulance. I think their ambulances look more like power repair trucks.

 

 

The Hotel des Invalides is really quite impressive as you approach it. I on the traffic medium to get this picture. I heard something behind me and turned to find 2 oriental kids had climbed on it to get their pictures.

 

One of the things that appealed to me as I approached the building is that there is a moat. No water these days but they had hung pictures honoring today's French armed forces.

 

 really had no interest in seeing the Musee de Armee but I wanted to see the churches. So I walked around and saw the Church des Invalides which was the soldiers’ part of a 2 church solution for the King to share the same church. The wall behind the sanctuary that you are seeing is actually glass and the cross on the other side. It is a beautiful church but I wanted to see the other half. So I head around to the other entrance, after all, the King can't use the same door as the common folk!

They wouldn't let me in...well, to be exact, they wouldn't let me in without a ticket. And they didn't sell one only for the Dome church, which happens to also be Napoleon’s tomb; you had to buy the one for the whole place for 9.50 euros! I decided it wasn't worth it.

 

 

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So with about an hour left before I needed to meet everyone, I headed to my favorite monument, probably in the world. It is the Peace Monument and when you look straight on at it, you see the wonder full glass panels and the circular columns with the word Peace in a multitude of languages. What you don't realize if you have never been there is that it faces the Ecole d'Militarie (Military School)! On this day, there were extra signs for Nuclear Disarmament. It was a 4 day protest to correspond with a fast going on in the UK.

 

 

I saw this monument for the first time in 2006. What really disturbed me this time is that people have tried to smash the glass that the words are written on. There are several panels of 2 ply safety glass and people have tried to smash many of them. What has happened to the glass is that there are spider webs all through 2/3rds of them. Who could smash a concept of peace??? But it also impresses me that despite all that, it hasn't crumbled.

 

So it was now time to find the Metro...but I couldn't! I was all over. I thought it was in front of the Eiffel Tower...no...I walked, I asked questions in my really poor French. No Metro! I did however, get a good look at the bottom of the Eiffel Tower. I have always wanted to look at in it's glory but never had any desire to climb it. So this was the closest I had ever been.

When I finally did find the Metro I was looking for, it was actually the RER train, it didn't go to the train station because of maintenance. So I headed to the one they pointed to (they said 400 meters, it seemed like a lot further). When I found it, it was elevated. The first such I have seen in Paris. But I will say, getting a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower over the house tops as you ride off was really cool.

A train switch later I met up with Tim and the kids and it was off for ice cream.

On the way to ice cream, we passed the Managerie and Elisabeth and I had a good time trying to catch a decent picture of the 2 ostriches.

 

 

I love ice cream in Europe where the chocolate is dark chocolate! Incredible!

The question was now where. Since we were right across from the Latin Quarter we walked across the bridge and over to Boulivard de St Germain des Pres. It was cool to walk the boulevard although I would have like to explore some of the side streets that meander around the area. But we walked to the Eglise de Sainte Germaine des Pres where the oldest part dates to the 11C. They are starting a renovation which is badly needed but oh, when they finish it, this will be such an incredible place to see. Under a considerable amount of wear and tear, it is an unbelievable church with murals high on the walls above the pews, and incredible detail.

Then we headed to our Paris home. But we still had more adventures for the day yet to come

 

We decided to combine dinner with seeing Sacre Ceour. The apartment is just south of Montremont in the Pigalle district, so Sacre Ceour is walking distance although a bit challenging for the old lady in the group since it is up a really steep hill.

We climbed by the back streets up to the top, through the teaming Place du Tertre and made a brief stop at St. Peter's of Montremont before circling around to the front of Sacre Ceour. The kids and Tim headed to the Dome but I had had enough climbing, so I went to see the church. Mass was going on so we were all quiet as we walked around the really beautiful perimeter. The ways of the cross are actually on the inside wall behind the altar.

 

I got this picture while I waited for them. There was a guy with a guitar leading a song on the steps. When everyone got back, we decided on dinner first then the guys would see the church. We went to a little place that we had passed on our initial climb and that had been recommended. I got to have Steak Tartare, something rarely if ever seen in the States. Tim tried Gravlax for the first time in a salad.

 

Then back around for the kids and Tim to see the church. I just sat in the back while they did which was really good because my cell phone rang and the guards were not pleased, chasing me out.

 

The view from the top looking out on Paris

 

The view up the hill from the same point.

A beautiful old carousal at the bottom of the hill.